Pelmeni, traditional dumplings that hold a near-sacred place in the hearts of the Siberian people inhabiting the Ural mountains, have made their way to convenience stores and the freezer sections of grocery stores all across Russia and Eastern Europe. But the modern convenience food and even homemade versions of pelmeni bear little resemblance to the traditional pelmeni recipe of the Urals which calls for a long, slow souring of dough. It’s slow food in the best of terms.
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History of Pelmeni
Pelmeni or “little ears of dough” in the native language of the Komi-Permyak people of the Kama River Basin in the Western Urals, satisfy on a cold evening. It’s perhaps of my own love of harsh and bleak climates, that I feel an affinity for the rugged mountain people of the Urals, for when I first happened upon pelmeni, I fell in love.
A subalpine people, the Komi-permyaks were hunters and the bounty of plentiful game filled their sacks and their pelmeni. Moose and other game, horse, beef, or lamb found their way into the rustic, sour dumplings which, thanks to the region’s severe climate, could be easily frozen outdoors and thus preserved for long trips. Brawny, rugged hunters would fill their packs with pelmeni before entering the rigors of the Taiga to search for more game.
In the years that pelmeni grew in favor, making their way from the pots and packs of Siberian hunters into freezer cases across Eastern Europe, the little dumplings lost a bit of their soul. No longer were they made from whole, soft winter wheat or soured over several days with fresh, bacteria-rich whey. No longer were they filled with wild meats. Instead, white flour took the place of whole wheat, and the tradition of fermenting the dough was lost completely. It’s time to bring the traditions of traditional foods, like pelmeni, back.
Melinda says
Twice now my dough has developed a dark brown (almost black) layer on top after the first day of fermenting. The first time, I had put it in a bowl with a lid and the second time, a bowl with plastic wrap. Is this dough safe to use? Is this normal or is there something I should do to prevent the discoloration?
Jenny says
Hi Melinda,
That hasn't been my experience so, I'm not sure what to suggest. If it smelled foul or was dark, like it had molded, I would discard it.
Lauren says
What is soft winter wheat flour? is it whole wheat cake flour?
Karalina says
Hi
Great recipe! I have never had pelmeni with a dough like this. I have never made whey but online it says you can from plain yogurt in strainer overnight.
I'm always scared of messing with bacterias.
I'm going to try this recipe though!! Hope I don't mess up and make toxic dough !! Hah
I have ukrainian family. They make mostly vareniki.
Hester Kalin - tea dough?! Wow! Interesting. Strong tea? Black tea I assume?
Hester Kalin says
I just love your website. I used to make these wonderful little meat and dough pies with my Grandfather , who was a Cossack. He insisted on making the dough with strong TEA, telling me that for sure I would NEVER find a like recipe.....and I never have. I suggest you try the strong tea idea. You will never make the pelmeni with water again!
Jenny says
I would love to try that!
Erica says
I'm really excited to try this recipe when I get some fresh eggs! I, too am inspired by 'harsh and bleak climates. It would be interesting if you added that as a tag: Traditional recipe from harsh and bleak climates. It would be interesting to see how different cultures dealt with such a rugged life.
Carol says
I was wondering if you might know the answer to this: I tried making this dough. There's been no need to punch it down as it hasn't risen at all. There's no bubbling or anything like that. The dough smells fine - like normal dough. Do you think it's still okay to use, and do you know why it hasn't done anything?
SuzannaLily says
My Russian Grandparents taught my mother to make this dish. It is my childhood comfort food for lunch! Beautiful representation of this traditional dish!
zhinka chunmee says
if you want to be more accurate.
use what we americans call elk, what the russians call moose, we call elk
zhinka chunmee says
I was born in Siberia, but I am lucky and I am american now 🙂
Erin says
Just made these - what a lovely and tasty recipe! My husband and I gobbled up a big bowl each. I didn't have enough soft white wheat flour so did a 50/50 mixture of that and sprouted buckwheat and they came out awesome. So I think you can probably sub flours around for what works with your family. Thanks so much for sharing!