Bûche de Noël, an homage to the yule log in velvety rich chocolate form, is a welcome if not essential holiday treat in many homes. A thick and luscious layer of dense chocolate sponge cake is wrapped around a layer of mouse or chantilly cream, dusted with cocoa powder, and often finished with chocolate ganache and meringue or marzipan mushrooms. Decadent doesn’t even begin to describe the dessert and we’re fortunate that this sort of a treat is a once-a-year affair – reserved for the solstice or for Christmas.
For years upon years, generations celebrated the changing of the seasons. At the winter solstice when the darkness shrouded the world and daylight waned to but a few grim hours, families and tribesmen would venture out into the bleak and bitterly cold winter to harvest the yule log. They’d light it afire, beckoning the return of the sun on the darkest day of the year. The tradition of the yule log, of mistletoe, and of the Christmas tree is, perhaps, the last vestiges of ancient winter rites still celebrated, albeit quietly, in modern times. Of course, the Bûche de Noël is a totem to the once-popular yule log – a chocolate treat rolled and formed to resemble to resemble the rough bark, rings, and knots of a log.
In this Bûche de Noël recipe, we omit flour altogether for an intensely rich sponge cake that resembles a souffle in texture and ingredients. Cocoa (or carob) powder pairs with pastured eggs, unrefined cane sugar, vanilla, and orange for a decadent winter treat. As rich and complex as the dessert may seem, it’s easy to prepare. This weekend, as I spooned cocoa into egg yolks, neighborhood children gathered in my kitchen with my son – each anxious to dip a finger into the chantilly cream or to help roll the cake. If you have small children, you’ll enjoy the time spent making this dish with them – forging new holiday traditions in your home.
Emily says
I’m going to make this for Christmas dinner. Do you have any recommendations for making it a day in advance? Or should I try to make it the day of?
Jenny McGruther says
Hi Emily,
I recommend making it on the day you plan to serve it. It can get a little soggy otherwise.
Paul says
This looks delicious. What size jelly roll pan do you use?
stacy says
I love this recipe, thank you. I used a large jelly roll pan and spread the batter almost to the edges. 15 min was perfect. It rolled fine when cool. I used whipped coconut cream inside. My guests all loved it so I made it again for a celebration tomorrow. I also enrobed it in chocolate chips melted with a bit of coconut oil. I chilled before serving.
Dejah says
This recipe omits a critical detail, and that is the jelly roll pan size. A couple commenters asked about it and never got an answer. I had the same question - scanning the comments as I was at the store trying to decide which size to buy. I got the larger size, which was a mistake. If you have a larger jelly roll pan, I suggest doubling the recipe, otherwise the edges will be crispy and the cake will be thin. I had to tilt the pan to get the batter to the edges.
Also, cut the parchment to fit up the sides of the pan so it doesn't stick. That is a detail I feel would have been helpful. Now I have to decide whether to try it again with a double batch for the cake batter.
tracy w says
Here is a great tutorial on rolling into the tea towel. http://www.nytimes.com/video/dining/100000003263795/buche-de-noel.html